Highlands and Islands Rally

Our Highlands & Islands rally got under way on the pontoons at the Ardfern Yacht Centre on Saturday 29th July. Yachts had gathered from many ports, including Largs, Croabh, the South Coast and further afield.  Bill and Gracie Bergius had travelled nearly a whole mile from their mooring in the pool South of Ardfern.

We started as we meant to continue - with a pontoon party.  It rained, but only for a few minutes. 

The team from Kean and Nyree Chung’s ‘MV Kaizen’ put on a tremendous spread, including delicious canapés and fizz, bravely deploying umbrellas to protect the food from the downpour! This opening event allowed the various crews to meet and get to know each other before we headed off for supper at Lucy’s.  Also joining us that night was Chris Perring who has organised previous Thames rallies in these waters.

Fresh local and delicious seafood featured heavily in our meal at Lucy’s, as it did throughout the rally.

After supper an impromptu whisky tasting on board True Colours capped off a wonderful and very sociable first evening. 

It was not until 12.00 the next day that we departed Ardfern heading South, catching the South going stream. A glorious first day’s sail in 20+ knots of wind from the SW, and sunshine.  A good breeze, combined with flat water in the Sound of Jura, emphasising why sailing in this part of the world is so wonderful. 

After sailing 28 miles we headed in to Craighouse on Jura and picked up mooring buoys or anchored. Craighouse is the home of Jura whisky - and no we didn’t.  But drinks were had on Northern Whistler!

The next day the plan was to catch the North going stream up the Sound of Islay heading for Loch Tarbert, on the west side of Jura. The forecast was for a SW 3 to 4, turning E later.  As the flotilla headed South and then W and then NW up the Sound of Islay the wind was building and, contrary to the forecast, we soon found ourselves in 42 knots of wind over tide in the narrowing channel!  This was no fun at all and one by one we dropped our sails and headed back to Craighouse.  MV Kaizen ploughed on to Loch Tarbert but those that turned back did at least enjoy quite excellent fish and chips at ‘Antlers’ on Jura.

On reviewing the forecast, it was proposed by Rally organiser Richard Franklin on Border Legend, that we amend our planned route and that we go round Mull anti-clockwise instead of clockwise.  

So, heading North from Craighouse we motored most of the day in very light winds - in complete contrast to yesterday!  Northern Whistler (Bill & Gracie Bergius), and Border Legend braved the extremely narrow ‘Grey Dogs’ white-water experience!

In the sound of Luing True Colours managed over 12 knots with the North going stream!

Anchored in Puilladobhrain (pronounced Pulldoor’n). A very picturesque anchorage where, having

attended the excellent Vice Commodore’s drink’s party at Cowes, RC House and Finance Tim Fooks

and his crew on Gryphon finally caught us up.

From the anchorage we walked half a mile across the northern tip of the Isle of Seil to the famous

‘Bridge over the Atlantic’. Sadly, the Tigh an Truish (House of the Trousers) pub overlooking the

bridge was closed but this led to several crews setting off for a hearty stroll, and even a swim,

before settling down for some excellent meals on board.

To Loch Aline the next day where once again there was plenty of inter-yacht hospitality in this very

well-protected natural harbour. On the way, Gryphon had stopped in at Loch Spelve, on the South

East of Mull, and picked up some of the local produce – delicious mussels grown in fabulously clear

water.

From Loch Aline we headed up the sound of Mull to Salen in Loch Sunart, to the lovely quiet pontoons there, passing the South going West Highlands racing fleet of almost 100 yachts on the way - quite a sight with that lot bearing down on you! 

and thence to Tobermory on Mull.  In Tobermory, after supper at a local establishment we adjourned to Border Legend to sample some of the finest local brews.

A bye-day had been planned in Tobermory and, with the help of some local friends, we organised a walk to Aros Park - an extremely picturesque inland Loch.  We picnicked on the foreshore overlooking Tobermory, bathed in sunshine. A champagne moment. 

That evening we enjoyed wonderful drinks and canapés on Kaizen before heading off for a rally dinner at the iconic Western Isles Hotel - we just managed to get there, having walked from the harbour, before the heavens opened.  We had spectacular views from the elevated position of the dining room as a series of rainbows progressed across the harbour. 

After dinner it was back to Kaizen for further light refreshment before turning in. 

From Tobermory the flotilla started to disperse as yachts headed off to various ports and other

commitments.  Border Legend found whales and dolphins galore on her round trip to the

southernmost Outer Hebrides. Kaizen set out over the sea to Skye via Luing and the Small Isles, and

the remaining fleet enjoyed some excellent sailing to the west coast of Mull and the delightful

Cragaig Bay on Ulva.  This is where your Antares charts really prove their worth!  After a walk ashore and exploring the ancient village ruins it was drinks on board True Colours where we were joined by Ali McLeod, a local friend of the Bergius’s.

From here Gryphon returned to the mainland port of Craobh Haven via Oban and the tricky Easdale

channel. Northern Whistler flew home through the awesome Gulf of Corryvreckan and True Colours

made her way back to Ardfern via Iona and the spectacular anchorage at Tinkers Hole on Erraid - Mull.

It was such a fun and social rally from beginning to end that the moment of departure was really very sad.  Friendships have been made.  Respectable amounts of whisky consumed (but only at the appropriate times!) and all within the most fascinating and beautiful cruising area in Europe, if not

the world.