North Croatia Rally 2023

Our North Croatia Rally got underway at Veruda Marina in Pula, on the tip of the Istrian peninsula. Owners of Little Bear (Nick and Jenny Stuart), Serenity of London (Peter & Kim King-Lewis) and Postremo (Chris & Sarah Boulter), and Devil’s Advocate (Peter & Gabrielle Chuchouse) all adapted their summer cruising plans to join the rally.

We were also joined members choosing to charter - despite owning their own boats in other waters the attractions of Croatia were just too tempting to resist!   Tequila Night (Julian and Sally Trumper & Pete and Annabelle Halsor), Mincipesa (Bernard Kinchin, Jenny Woods, Rosemary Luck and Richard Taylor), and Luna (Chris and Ali Griffiths) all chartered through Helm with great support from our co-organiser Jamie Foot.

The Istrian peninsula is steeped in ancient history, once being occupied by the Romans, and has an extensive range of destinations as well as excellent local wines – we intended to explore them all deeply and started as we intended to continue with an opening dinner in Pula!

Day One: Sunday, 3 September

We began the week by sailing through the Brijuni National Park where the fleet visited a private island once frequented by President Tito of former Yugoslavia.  The Cumberland Fleet moored together against the town quay.

Brijuni Islands National Park, on tip of the Istrian Peninsula

Cumberland Fleet at Brijuni – posted by Jenny Stuart

Day Two, Monday 4 September

On Day two Postremo, Devil’s Adovate, and Mincipesa sailed to Rovinj.  Time Out magazine notes, “Rovinj is Istria at its most chic, a scenic resort of quality restaurants and cocktail bars, galleries and boutiques. Stone houses and cobbled streets lend an authentic air” and having visited Rovinj, the fleet certainly agrees!

Drinks at Rovinj Hotel – posted by Bernard Kinchin

Little Bear and Serenity of London sailed to Funtana:  The town surrounds a stone palace on a hill, next to a church with a bell-tower and its intertwining stone alleys, date back to ancient times.

Funtana, near Porec on the Istrian Peninsula

Day Three, Tuesday 5 September

The fleet enjoyed superb, champagne sailing conditions and made their way 18Nm from Rovinj to Noivigrad where the fleet enjoyed drinks at the aptly named “Sunset Bar”:

“Rallied in Novigrad” – posted by Peter King-Lewis

“Sunset Bar” in Novigrad – posted by Peter Churchouse

Day 4, Wednesday 6 September

On Wednesday, 6th the Cumberland Fleet sailed to Porec where we were treated to a bottomless Pimms party hosted by the crew of Minsipesa:

Bottomless Pimms party in Porec, hosted by Mincipesa

Day Five:  Thursday 7 September

On Thursday, the main fleet sailed to Rovinj and enjoyed shore-side entertainment whilst arrivals for week two settled into exploring Pula and enjoyed some culture attending the opera.

Novigrad street-life and entertainment – posted by Claudia Hill

Week 2 Early Birds:  Pre-opera dinner – posted by Pete Halsor

Week 2 Early Birds at the Opera - posted by Pete Halsor

Day Six: Friday, 8 September

On Friday, the entire fleet was thrilled to attend a cocktail party aboard Devil’s Advocate, hosted by Peter & Gabrielle Churchouse complete with Jazz Band and bar and barbeque.   This is becoming somewhat of a tradition after hosting the same at our 2022 Naples Rally.  Needless to say, a very very grand time was had by all, and we are most thankful to Peter and Gabrielle for hosing it!

Cocktail Party aboard Devil’s Advocate

Day Seven: Saturday, 9 September

On Saturday, we formally welcomed our week 2 new joiners to the rally, with a mid-week dinner at Restaurant Amfiteatre – attended by no fewer than 5 current or previous flag officers!

Five Rear Commodore’s:  Richard Hill, Bernard Kinchin, Jenny Woods, Jon Redding and Chris Griffiths

Day Eight: Sunday, 10 September

On Sunday, we got underway making the 25nm crossing to Unije.  With a very, very gentle breeze from behind we motor sailed around the tip of the Istrian Peninsula and several boats enjoyed a swim and lunch stop in Portic bay before continuing on to Unije.   At Unije, several boats anchored to the town quay with others anchoring nearby, and we all came together at a beach bar to celebrate Jon Redding’s birthday in a quintessential Adriatic setting.

Jon Redding Birthday Drinks – Unije, posted by Jenny Stuart

Yet another stunning sunset at Unije whilst celebrating Jon Redding’s Birthday – posted by Pete Halsor

The Cumberland Fleet at Unije- posted by Julian Trumper

Day Nine: Monday, 11 September

On day nine, we sailed the 15nm to Mali Losinj, pausing for a lunch and swim just to the north of town and then moored at the Mali Losinj Yacht Club marina.  We all enjoyed the drinks on the pontoon organised by Chris and Ali Griffiths and then dinner in town at a very fine restaurant, Bocca Vera.

Day Ten: Tuesday, 12 September

On Tuesday, members enjoyed a land day sightseeing, shopping and visiting museums in the picturesque town of Mali Losinj before moving to the East side of Mali Losinj – some passing through the narrow, shallow channel that connects Mali Losinj to the island of Cres.  Despite much previous debate about depths and width we had no issues at all, although the depth gauge did read 0.00 briefly!   The fleet anchored in a very pretty sheltered bay, where we enjoyed live music ashore and members dining aboard or ashore.

Our Rear Commodore Sailing hoping to catch supper!  Posted by Jenny Stuart

Day Eleven: Wednesday, 13 September

On Wednesday, we enjoyed an excellent breeze and had a lovely reach ENE from Lošinj to Rab which is 20nm away.  Rab is a delightful old town with picturesque narrow streets, lots of shops and restaurants. Many monasteries and spires and a great elevated view into the channel to the West.   In the evening, we enjoyed drinks on the pontoon kindly organised by the Nick and Jenny Stewart.  Great fun and we even made friends with our neighbours from the Austrian Yacht Club!

Drinks party hosted by Little Bear – Nick Stuart

Rab Marina where the fleet enjoyed drinks party hosted by Little Bear -posted by Julian Trumper

Day Twelve: Thursday, 14 September

Sailed close hauled in 12 knots of breeze from Rab to Osor, about 22nm. Threat of thunderstorms and lightning on the horizon but the worst passed us and we anchored in bay south of Osor for a lunch and swim.  Then through the swing bridge and narrow channel (wider and deeper than at Mali Losinj) and picked up a double mooring in the small bay NE of Osor. Mincipesa and Tequila Night enjoyed impromptu drinks onboard followed by barbecue off the stern of boat.

Boats rafted up at Osor – posted by Julian Trumper

Drinks aboard Tequila Night – posted by Richard Taylor

Day Thirteen: Friday, 5th September

Back to Pula.  Departed before 0830 to sail the 28nm back to Pula and enjoyed a fine breeze of up to 17 knots.  Final night dinner at Ribarska Koliba overlooking the marina. Great setting with a red Triumph Spitfire in the dining room.  Superb food and great service.  Our Captain of Cruising, Julian Trumper, made a short speech before dinner to thank everyone and toast the King.  Jon Redding RCS thanked everyone again and Jo Redding reminded us of the forthcoming Women Who Rock the boat fund raising dinner.

As I reflect on a great rally, I am struck by the camaraderie of our members, the welcoming nature of each and the wonderful times we all shared.  This is what makes our club special and our cruising events so enjoyable. 

The Croatian islands proved to be a hit, with one attendee enjoying the area so much they decided to take a long-term berth in Pula.   I recall at our first rally dinner back in February I mentioned this would be my fourth time cruising Croatia, and that each time I ventured further north and found it better and better each time – this trip certainly proved that to be the case!

Look forward to seeing you all on the water again soon.  

Until then, fair winds,

Pete Halsor